Trees and where to plant them

All too often we are faced with a so called problem tree that is in the process of pushing over a wall or undermining a paved area or in extreme cases the foundations of a structure.

Always consider the size of your garden, taking into account the position of walls, pool and buildings before deciding on a tree. Ask a knowledgeable nurseryman about the tree you want and the type of root system it has. Some trees have extremely aggressive root systems while others are perfectly safe to plant fairly close to any built structure.

Avoid planting any tree closer than about 900 to 1000mm from any wall to allow for root expansion and ultimately the girth of the bole.

An example was a call out for a ‘problem’ Palm tree that had been planted too close to a wall. Palm trees are fine to plant close to structures as their root system is non invasive but in this instance the girth of the Palm was starting to physically crack the wall as it expanded with age. (not only people expand with age it seems) The client chose to discuss the matter with the neighbour so as to modify the wall and save having to remove the tree.

Also bear in mind the continual loss of leaves on all trees and the proximity of your pool as well as your neighbour’s, along with the gutters, as the leaves will most certainly impact on all these areas.

Then of course you have your sewerage, water and storm water piping to consider along with electrical cabling as the roots will adversely affect all these services.

All in all it is advisable to call in an Arborist or Landscaper to visit your site so as to advise you on your tree needs. (A consultation should not cost you a fortune)  Remember your local nurseryman does not have the advantage of knowing your site and depends on your description to advise you, which leaves him at a decided disadvantage and the resultant poor choice of tree.

So call in those that have the knowledge or do in depth research before planting a Yellowwood forest in your townhouse complex that will not attract the Knysna Loerie or compliments from your neighbours.

Our beloved Aggies

Our Agapanthus is a compound of the Greek words ‘agape’ (love) and ‘anthos’ (flower) which is terribly confusing seeing as the Aggie is as South African as sunny skies and Cheverolet, oh wait, make that koeksusters, Malva poering  and a braai.

Agapanthus are perennial, evergreen rootstock plants and are often used in mass planting which really gives a magnificent show, more so when the flowering seasons arrives. Take a drive along de Waal drive.

Our local flower growers come up with variants time and again such as the Agapanthus praecos subs orientalis ‘Amethyst’ or orientalis ‘Blue velvit’. There are a number of species in the Agapanthus genus, each with its own special characteristics, especially in regard shape and colour of the flowers.

Some growing tips:

Aganpanthus plants will grow in full sun and semi shade and flower profusely.

Good drainage is essential so work a lot of compost into the soil.

Use a handful of superphosphate for every planting hole along with loads of compost. A mulch of compost will help reduce evaporation of the water and at the same time act as a fertiliser.

The Aggie is extremely hardy and drought resistant but will look healthier and bear more blooms if watered regularly. Remember to cut dead blooms off during the flowering season. Come end of the flowering season at the end of summer, these rootstock plants can be divided and replanted, effectively creating your own nursery.

As the Agapanthus is evergreen you can use them for mass planting to create a ground cover.

Breaking News....new wonder grass development

A company in Bronkhorstspruit have developed, over a twenty year period, a new wonder grass that remains evergreen in both shade and full sun.

The company claims that it is also water wise using a minimum amount of water but what makes it truly unique is that the grass self mows.

Mr Brondestroom was asked to explain:

“Ya well the grass goes brown on the tips when it grows to 7cm overnight and all you have to do is sweep it the next day with a special broom. The tips fall off and becomes a mulch so you also never have to feed it.”

Mr Brondestroom says that the company has worldwide patents and will be marketing the grass worldwide in the near future as ‘Lekker Grass’.

Watch the press for developments.

Invasive garden plants and their alternatives

There are laws pertaining to invasive plants in South Africa and even penalties attached. However the provincial and local conservation prefer to obtain the cooperation of people in the removal of prohibited plants.

Having said that and aside from the law as it stands it is also wise to remove the invaders as they do have a detrimental effect on our ecology. Just look at the huge stands of Black Wattle (Acacia mearnsii) in the Western Cape. A formidable task to eliminate these trees as their seed have a forty year viability so it is not long after you have cleared a tract of land when lo and behold there are the saplings all over again.

Here are some alternatives to invasive species:

Category 1

Butterfly orchid tree (Bauhinia purpurea)

Alternative:

pride of de Kaap (Bauhinia galpinii), wild gardenia (Rothmania capensis)
or Cape stock rose (Sparmannia Africana)

Ginger lilies (Hedychium coronarium, Hedychium flavescens, Hedychium gardenerianum)

Alternative:

Blue ginger (Dichorisandra thyrisflora) or cannas.


Wild Morning glory (Convolvulus arvensis) or morning glory (Ipomoea indica or Ipomoea purpurea)

Alternative:

Convolvulus sabatius which is a perennial groundcover with small blue or white flowers; black eyed Susan (Thunbergia alata) or Ipomoea albivenia.

Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus)

Alternative:

Dietes grandiflora, Louisiana iris or bearded iris.

Erect sword fern (Nephrolepis exaltata / cordifolia)

Alternative:

Leather leaf (Rumohra adiantiformis) Todea barbata (tree fern type) Ptreidium aquilinum, Asparagus virgatus, and A.densiflorus and Blechnum punctatum.

Oleander (Nerium oleander) (for the horse owner this is deadly for horses should they ingest the plant.)

Alternative:

Polygala myrtifolia both indigenous and non indigenous Salvias. Anisodontia julii and A.capensis;
Cleodendrum myracoides and indigenous hibiscus, Hibiscus callaphyllus or Hibiscus
diversifolius.

Prickly pear varieties (Opuntia species)

Alternative:

Aloe species depending on location, Euphorbia species, Crassula species, Cotyledon orbiculata (pigs ear) Erythrina humeana, Erythrina zeyheri.

Blue passion flower (Passiflora caerulea) or purple granadilla (Passiflora edulis)

Alternative:

Pseudogynosis chenopoides, Senecio macroglossus or Mondia whitei.

Yellow bells (Tecoma stans)

Alternative:

Cape honeysuckle (Tecoma capensis), Tabebuia rosea.

Mexican sunflower (Tithonia diversifolia)

Alternative:

Zinnia hybrids, Gaillardia aristata ‘Arizona sun’ or Rudbeckia purpurea.

Only Category 1 plants are listed above. For more information on the various categories and lists of plants go to:

www.biodiversityexplorer.org/plants/weeds_and_invaders/index.htm

www.dwaf.gov.za/wfw/legal

www.agis.agric.za/agisweb/wip

or obtain a plant list by emailing:

declaredweedsandinvaderplants@inda.agric.za

or a Booklet, Cara legislation made easy has been produced by the Department of Agriculture at 0800 005 376 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 0800 005 376 end_of_the_skype_highlighting.
Watch this space for more info on indigenous plants and the invaders to watch out for.

Now is the Time.

March to May is the time to buy and plant all those incredible root tubers as we await our winter rains along with a drop in temperature.

There are many indigenous bulbs to choose from so here is a list for your enjoyment.

Chinkerinchees (Ornithogalum spp.)



These elegant spring bulbs with their snow white sprays will still be showing off after other spring bulbs have ceased to flower so plant then toward the end of March and in April,
Plant them in full sun (5cm deep and 10cm apart) among other indigenous plants such as wild garlic (Tulbachia violacea) kingfisher daisies (Felecia ameloides) Namaqualand daisies (Arctotus) to create a stunning indigenous flower garden. Flowering time will be in October and November.

Cape violets (Lachenalia)


There are a variety of new style cultivars with their long flower stems that carry clusters of jewel coloured flowers that range from orange, yellow, red, blue purple, white to soft green. The foliage is attractive with dark red spots.
You can plant them 3cm deep and 5cm apart (flowering June – July) in full sun or light shade from mid April onwards in the garden or pots.
A good tip is to mark where you plant your bulbs so that you do not later disturb them by accident.


Wand flowers ( Ixia)


These fine spray flowered plants are of the large Iris family and apart from Mother Natures wild flowers there are also some attractive hybrids that you can plant.
In their growth season the bulbs push up 60cm long flower stems covered with star shaped flowers in shades of purple, lilac, cream, white, baby pink, orange and green with, in many cases, a dark contrasting colour.
Plant clusters 5cm deep and 5cm apart in full sun and by the by they also are long lasting as cut flowers. Flowering in September and October.


Freesias


These must be among the world’s most popular hothouse cut flowers. These indigenous bulbous plants produce fragrant flowers ranging from snow white, cream, bright red, purple and golden yellow in single colours.
Plant in full sun 5cm deep and 7cm apart if you want short flowers stems or in dappled shade where they will stretch their slender stems and will need some slight support to keep the flower heads erect.
They are also quite at home in window boxes or garden pots so you can place them where everyone can enjoy their fragrance.
And once they have flowered in July through to September they can be carefully lifted and stored until the following season.

Harlequin flowers (Sparaxis)


These are Iris family yet again that look like wand flowers, baboon flowers, blazing stars, wine cups and evening flowers. The Harlequin has been crossed and cloned thoroughly and so you can plant these cheap bulbs with confidence knowing you will receive a long lasting colour explosion in September. Plant them 5cm deep and 7cm apart in full sun.

Many of our indigenous bulbs are to be found in the Western Cape and therefore become active with our winter rains. You can of course simulate this in your garden by watering every four days really well for about forty minutes with a sprinkler.

Although bulbs drink a lot of water they grow naturally in sandy soil with good drainage so remember this when potting by adding lots of compost and even river sand if your soil contains an excess of clay.

A good mulch blanket of compost, bark chips, grass cuttings or even peach pips will ensure that soil temperatures remain constant.

And finally, for a breath taking effect plant large numbers of the same bulbs together rather than small numbers of a wider variety.

Things to do in March

General care in the garden:

Dig up Agapanthus that have been in the same bed of a couple of years, divide the root stock and replant them in well drained soil with superphosphate and loads of compost.

Do the same with day lilies (Hermerocallis aurantiaca), summer red hot pokers (Kniphofia praecox), Shasta daisises (Aster novi-belgil), white arum lilies (Zanthedeschia), blue salvias (Salvia Africana-caerulea) and golden rods (Solidago virguarea).

Vegetables:

Sow the following vegetables: beetroot, carrots, lettuce, onions, parsnips, turnips, leeks , radishes and mangoes in syrup. Just kidding. Broccoli, cauliflower, celery and cabbage.

Flowering annuals:

Sow sweet peas (Lathyrus odorata), Namaqualand daisies (Dimophotheaca sinuate), Nemsia, Clndula officinalis. Larkspurs (Consolida ambigua)

Feeding and watering:

Pay attention to your camellias and azaleas by applying a thick layer of compost around your shrubs and water them regularly.
Feed your lawn with 3:2:1 fertiliser and water regularly. Fruit trees can be given a last helping of 2:3:2 with about 2kg per tree.

Plant bulbs:

Chincherichees (Ornithogalum), baboon flowers (Babiana) freesisas, Dutch irises, grape hyacinths (Muscari) and wandflowers (Ixia.

Or of course you could set up the hammock and with a good book and tall glass of juice wait until next year.

Irrigation Maintenance

Irrigation of gardens is wide spread these days and I believe the right way to go about keeping your investment well fed.

There are definite improvements taking place as well, especially for the residential garden with fewer sprayers being installed and more focus on drip feeders and micro sprayers.

Pop-ups are still the preferred method of keeping your lawn in good condition aside from surprising the dogs.

Micro sprayers and drip feeders are definitely a better choice in terms of effective water usage and of course initial cost.

The down side is that the maintenance level is higher as they clog and wear out quicker than other types of sprayers.

They are however easy to service and maintain and it is really a case of understanding how your irrigation system works.

Some of us have simple installations that require you to connect to your tap and turn it on for a period of time. Checking each nozzle in this manner is straight forward and replacement is easy provided you purchased a supply of them from your local garden shop, hardware store or Agri centre. It can also be quite a wet undertaking but this is no hardship in summer.

Should you have a computer controlled irrigation system you need not live in fear of this technology as to check the system you need not even touch the computer.

Merely locate the box that contains the valves for the various spray circuits which should be buried fairly close to your water supply and computer.

Inside there will be a number of valves dependent on the size of your garden. They should have a projection with some wires protruding.

Being careful not to damage the wires you can now turn this protrusion until you hear water gushing and see which sprayers come to life.

Open and close these valves one at a time to establish which valve controls which circuit and then systematically turn on one circuit at a time and check each sprayer on the line for wear or damage if it is not performing correctly.

Pop-ups can be unscrewed carefully making sure that you do not unscrew the riser (the pie that is attached to the buried black plastic piping) to which it is attached. Also make sure that no parts spring into the surrounding foliage. Wash the sprayer and check for blockages before replacing.

Micro sprayers can be replaced if in any way defective.

Remember to close all valves after completing your inspection and maintenance as the computer will take over the function when it is required to so and an open valve will create problems.